Remove screws from front headlamp cowlings. One is on the side near indicator lens. There's another recessed under the headlight. Need an LED torch to find it.

1. 2005 Express Van For Sale
2. Mitsubishi Express Van

Pop the headlight cowling out but replace with only the screw that is below the indicator lens. Makes it a bit easier for next time. 90/100 halogens work OK and won't pop fuses or melt your switch.

They don't seem to have relays on their headlights, even the high beams, so don't go overboard with the 90/130 halogen H4 inserts unless you wire up some heavy duty wiring to the headlights via a 40 amp relay (I got my relays from a Ford). 15w or heavier is better.

The moment I went to 5w the engine was ruined. Too much oil getting past those poor quality OEM oil rings. That's why people on this forum advise you to buy Gulf Western if you are fortunate enough to be still running Original Equipment Manufacturer supplied rings. Mine smoked at 350,000k. Can't make stuff to last.

If you get the engine reco'd with quality components, then you would use 25w magnatec for cold start protection. Last engine snapped a belt at 350k using magnatec and an oil filter change whenever that low level oil warning went on and the engine was neither noisy or blowing smoke when the belt went at 220k. Have you disconnected the battery recently?

2005 Express Van For Sale

If you have, the engine computer is remapping itself. It's trying to determine the correct idle setting. It will reset after 20 minutes. If not it's probably a motor with a distributor, not coil packs, right?

Mitsubishi Express Van

If so, the distributor drive is wearing out. They all do this. Just a matter of time. Quick way to analyze this.

1) Mark the harmonic balancer at the timing marks with chalk. 2)start engine 3) point timing light at the harmonic balancer 4) if the chalk mark position keeps changing under the strobe, the dizzy drive is slopping around in it's engagement with the camshaft. A word of caution here - try not to connect with the fan whilst waving the strobe light around the engine bay! I've connected with the fan a couple of times.

Remediation process: 1) remove dizzy but leave the cap and leads on the vehicle. Requires a phillips head to remove cap. 2) place dizzy in vise and knock out the small pin on the end that holds the steel collar with two prongs on it. I use a rivet as a small punch to do this with a hammer. 3) Put pieces in ice cream container or similar as parts are small and can be easily lost. Note the timing mark on that collar and take a photo before you start noting the position of that timing mark and the current position of the distributor arm. 4) remove the metal collar that has two prongs from the dizzy shaft.

This piece is the culprit that has worn. It has a partner on the engine that is a casting attatched to the camshaft. Unbolt that and remove it as this socket is the other half of your problem. Between the socket and the collar that engages with it, there is a small amount of play that is causing your ignition timing to 'wander'. It's effect is amplified by the fact that the dizzy is turning at half the speed of the engine rpm, so a small amount of movement on the camshaft is double the amount of movement shown on the harmonic balancer.

5) get another socket from the wreckers. They refer to it as a 'distributor drive'. Cost is around $10.

6)Don't panic. You are halfway there. Find an engineering shop and get them to turn up another 'collar' from steel - mild or hardened steel is OK. Do not let them cut one from aluminium or aluminum alloy. Reason is that this coupling MUST be magnetic to be puuuuuurfect! Take the dizzy drive with you to the engineering place and explain to them that your steel coupling must engage fully with the dizzy drive.

Ie, not with two prongs as is the original, but with a solid bar right across the slot and must be made from steel. This part of the process does not come cheap. Should've got another one cut for my other van as they would not have charged. All the costs are in tooling up.

420 Industrial Tractor 1978-19NA Industrial. Ford 420 Industrial Tractor Service Manual (HTFO-S230A231). Tractor Manual. Item Number: HTFO-S230A231. Feb 28, 2018 - Hello everyone, Just bought my 1st tractor. It is a used Ford 420 industrial diesel. I already have an operators manual for the tractor. 420 Industrial Tractor 1975-1978 Gas and Diesel Industrial. Industrial Gas & Diesel. Manual shift and power reversing transmission and P.T.O. Ford 420, 515, 532, and 535: The hydraulic lift rocker.

7) reassemble. Put your new collar on dizzy, noting correct alignmnent. It can go on that distributor shaft where you hammer the locating pin in it in one of two ways. Don't worry if you get it wrong. When the engine did not instantly fire up, I knew it was out of phase. Just pull out dizzy and turn the collar 180 degrees on the end of the dizzy shaft, hammer the pin back in and reassemble, re-attatch dizzy cap and engine will start.

Note: if you do this correctly, as you are inserting the distributor, as it is about to engage fully with the drive the dizzy will pull from your hands and attatch itself to the distributor drive. It will do this because the dizzy drive is highly magnetized and that magnetism is conducted through the coupling that you made and into the distributor drive socket. This is called a magnetic coupling which means there will never be movement in that coupling again.

Note also that distributor must engage fully, neither too short ( no magnetic coupling) or too long ( dizzy sits proud of it's mounting). Ie, that collar that you get re-made must be the same overall length as the original, both inside and out to engage properly. If you want a cheap fix but the same result, remove the collar from the dizzy and weld in the void between the two prongs with a stick welder. Grind the weld until square. You might even get by using the old distributor drive ( the socket that attatches to the camshaft) if you get that 'magnetic coupling'. Just how successful this would be is a case if speculation as you would now be driving the dizzy from the centre of the socket, not the ends where turning force is least.

Pro is that you may save $400 + labour fees. Con is that it does not work and you have no template from which to cut another shaft collar. Dizzy's are $50. I bought one from the wreckers so I could still keep driving my van whilst I re-engineered my original dizzy.

Big job, granted. If it's all beyond your capabilities, print off these notes and take to a competent mechanic/auto electrician.